Wednesday, February 16, 2011
Friday, November 19, 2010
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
Tuesday, November 9, 2010
Topanga Morning Session November 9
The waters surface had a bit of wind on it this morning, but luckily it was onshore winds. The waves were about 1-2, occasional 3, and coming in at a gentle pace. The wind almost held the wave crest in one place, the energy of wind and swell were so evenly balanced.
The water tempurature was about 62 with a wind/chill factor of what felt like 20 degrees. The kind of cold that after about a half an hour your big toe goes numb and you cant cup your hands anymore. People were talking about investing in booties, and maybe even a hood. And with all that said, there was this guy. Not only is he bare back, his hair somehow stays "brat pack" cool:
The vibe was good. A guy on a 70s board paddled up to me and explained that I could take off on him if I felt like it. He said he found this board behind one of his apartments, and from time to time, though it rides like hell, needs to take it out so it doesn't feel forgotten. Very thoughtful, I'm sure the board appreciates it.
The best part about today is I saw my friends out there. It's good to start every morning doing your absolute favorite thing with a good friend. It makes all the time after that feel like a pretty good trade off.
Here's the last part of my friends ride, I totally missed the best part of that super long ride. Sorry shilt!
See you in the water!
The water tempurature was about 62 with a wind/chill factor of what felt like 20 degrees. The kind of cold that after about a half an hour your big toe goes numb and you cant cup your hands anymore. People were talking about investing in booties, and maybe even a hood. And with all that said, there was this guy. Not only is he bare back, his hair somehow stays "brat pack" cool:
The vibe was good. A guy on a 70s board paddled up to me and explained that I could take off on him if I felt like it. He said he found this board behind one of his apartments, and from time to time, though it rides like hell, needs to take it out so it doesn't feel forgotten. Very thoughtful, I'm sure the board appreciates it.
The best part about today is I saw my friends out there. It's good to start every morning doing your absolute favorite thing with a good friend. It makes all the time after that feel like a pretty good trade off.
Here's the last part of my friends ride, I totally missed the best part of that super long ride. Sorry shilt!
See you in the water!
Monday, November 8, 2010
Topanga Morning Session November 3rd
7 am in the morning. Beautiful glassy waters at Topanga. Some amazing surfers out—mellow, and soulful. You could feel the good vibes from the beach where I sat. The best thing was this good lighting for the shots and videos that follow.
This guy surfs topanga all the time. He is pretty amazing. He doesn't look angry at
the waves—ever. Instead looks like his soul is feeding off the good energy of the wave
and letting it in.
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